Extreme luxury


Patagonia: a horizontal, dizzy viewpoint

The great South of Argentina is the Patagonia, the legendary extremity of the American continent, the ultimate backbone of this phenomenal Andes Cordillera that extends to Cape Horn. An uncontrolled country that leaves you voiceless, where your words are lost in the vast, grandiose and extreme stretches of land.  At El Calafate, a small pioneer village, a three-hour flight from Buenos Aires, we discover this arid land, these glaciers at the edge of the world, a real memory of days-gone-by, in a hotel full of charm, Los Sauces.




El Calafate, village on the edge of the world

Already from under the wings of the plane, we can have a fleeting view of what is awaiting us : a mosaic and real labyrinth of Argentinean volcanoes, fjords, lagoons, glaciers, plains and bluish lakes… So prepare yourself to take a measured dose of the overwhelming and your guarantee to diverse thrills.
El Calafate, this small village located between the Santa Cruz Plateau and the Andes Cordillera in the Southwest province of Santa Cruz, is the gateway to the famous Perito Moreno Glacier and the National Park of the Patagonia Glaciers. This village which became famous thanks to its President Kirchner who comes from here and moreover has been able to boost development with the creation of an airport, located along Lago Argentino.
Thirty kilometres from there, the legendary Route 40 connecting Bolivia with the Land of Fire starts up.
In its perfectly straight streets, workshops with colourful front sides are squeezed in, one after the other. But very quickly, sidewalks give way to the Pampas that is scarred by the road. We feel very small !

Los Sauces, an elegant « estancia »

But before approaching the legendary Perito Moreno, you must stop at Los Sauces, an elegant and pleasant estancia, member of Small Luxury Hotels and the property of President Cristina Kirchner. Anchored along the banks of Calafate arroyo and opposite the Bahia Redonda of Lago Argentino, the architecture of Los Sauce took its inspiration from the Argentinean decor of the Pampas, in the heart of 4 hectares of vegetation. More than a hotel, here you will find several houses that will make you feel at home in the warm and exuberant deco.  
Its handful of small buildings with a green roof, spread out over the domain are accessible by a paved pathway. A small wooden bridge bordered by blackened tree trunks and local stones cross the Calafate River and even lead to our rooms.

The special atmosphere of private houses

Each house proudly displays a rainbow of colours that dress up the walls of rooms and the common areas, evoking nature coming alive outside.


The individual houses open onto a large entrance with an open area between the living room and the dining room, a beautiful stone chimney and several bedrooms. Our house is called Bosquet and comes with a mezzanine, a library for some evening reading and four other rooms decorated with their own, unique colour theme. Each room shows a very different atmosphere, decorated by Argentinean artists. Here you will find a sculpture by Adriano Verreto, over there a painting by Linda Omo, an old trunk, a saddle from the era or poufs in cow hides that brings you back to the reality of the places.
A personal touch is omnipresent, a glimpse of the Patagonia. A real lifestyle where the host, after having confronted the ice cold weather and the untamed elements, finds himself or herself in a cocoon.
The spa, an octagonal, stone rotunda with bay windows, offers different specialized massages, welcome relaxation after trekking or a 4 x 4 tour.  
As for the restaurants, delicious dishes are proposed each evening in a room completely decorated in purple. The restaurant staff is at your beck and call in a natural and pleasant way.
Here you find yourself in a charming paradise that definitely deserves an extended stopover.

Perito Moreno, the legendary glacier

The next day at 8 a.m. while the sun is still hidden by the clouds, we leave in search of the famous Perito Moreno. Taking the road that twists and turns like a snake in the arid steppes, we drive 80 km to reach the holy of the holies, the Perito Moreno glacier.
Our eyes gaze over these arid stretches that makes you dizzy, covered with thick herbaceous tufts, dead trees or trunks blackened by fire. And above all the presence of Lago Argentina, a vast body of water bordered by mountain chains in the distance, these legendary alpinist cathedrals, fascinates on account of  its vastness and unreal beauty.


 


At a bend in the Glaciers Park, called the bend of exclamation, we can not refrain from expressing our emotions.  
Perito Moreno, an extraordinary icy gem, sculpted in twisty forms, 30 km long and a surface of 300 km² surrounded by snowy tips, lenga and nirre (Atlantic beech) reveals itself. We are moved. A small boat enables us to reach the foot of the glacier to put climbers on and to leave our fleeting traces. Over the years, especially since 1947, it has never stopped regenerating itself, unlike the other glaciers, because it comes up against the Magellan peninsula,and its conch remaining in the shade, the snow that is falling becomes ice again. Always in movement, only sometimes the noise from a block of ice breaking off, disrupts the silence.
Here the reality of the site is the silent proof of the many years required to forge these icy cathedrals.
A moment of pure emotion.

Approaching icebergs
The next day is full of new emotions with the cruise from Puerto Bandera, located 50 km west of Calafate on lago Argentino, where we come upon icebergs that are breaking off the Upsala, Spegazzini and Périto Moreno Glaciers.
Upsala is the largest glacier - 595 km² - and its emerged walls have a height ranging from 60 to 80 meters. It is quite incredible to think that we can see 80 m, while there are 700 meters underwater !
The blocks that break off show unknown blue colours, changing with the caprice of the weather.


Suddenly a piece of an iceberg of a fluorescent blue, looks like a spark of light and the sky in turn takes on indescribable colours.
Here we see "live", a Homeric scenery : dark mountains like a black sky, glaciers with bluish reflections that come very close to our boat, sharp peaks.
This scenery gives us goose bumps with all that it expresses in silence. The light also intensifies our imaginations and these icebergs change from a bluish milky colour, from white snow to a cobalt blue.
Thus, Patagonia attracts too, due to its chromatic exaggeration
The height of luxury, a sailor succeeds in fishing a small piece of an iceberg and we end up drinking a whisky/iceberg !

And for the finale, a ride in a 4x4
To top it off, the next day, a ride in a 4x4 on the Huyleche mountain that overlooks the Calafate.
Pablos, a young Argentinean with a sultry look and a rough-hewn face, is waiting for us in his car to take us on a discovery of the pampas in full glory. During the walk, as talkative as a magpie, Pablos tells us in his semi-English, semi-Spanish language, the life of the gauchos and the herders. A real calling to find yourself up high on these lands, swept by continuous winds coming from the west, without any soul in sight. An authentic lunar landscape, intermitted with large stretches of steppes or snow. Fortunately, a hot chocolate, under a tent located at 1000 metre in height, will warm us and we will reconcile ourselves with nature, because the wind, blowing from the Pacific is really icy. 


Two stops on the headland, and the view and the emotion are omnipresent, catching what for a long time was only words printed on paper.

Novembre 2009
By Katya PELLEGRINO

 



La pampa

Los Sauces 1352/1370
El Calafate
Santa Cruz
Argentine
T : 54 11 4338 5288 
master suite (90 m²) 320 US $
Corner suite (50 m²) 220 US $ 
Suite (40m²) 160 US$


www.turismo.gov.ar


Shopping
La Cruz Del Sur
Av El Libertador 1064
El Calafate

Balade en 4x4 sur la montagne Huyleche :
Viva Patagonia
Av . del Libertador 1029
T : (02902) 491437


info@miloutdoor.com
www.miloutdoor.com




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