Gastronomy


BERNARD MAGREZ, a self-made man

Bernard Magrez, a wine merchant (Château Pape-Clément, Château La Tour…), is a man “who is not afraid of anything” and who has had an exceptional professional career. Starting from scratch, he  conquered one market after another with success, after numerous ordeals and hardships, to assume the position that he had his eyes on already as a young boy «to rank among world leaders in wine». Bernard Magrez graciously accepted to be interviewed by Luxe-Magazine.
When we read different articles about you, we can not help but wonder at the fact that nothing predestined you to work in the wine sector. What was the turning point? Was it the fact that as a young boy, you had to go to school with a sign on your back written «I am lazy»?
That certainly was good character training, but it was really the time I spent at a training school in Luchon that enabled me to get to know myself better and then when I started ‘learning the ropes’ at the age of 21, working for a wine merchant, my desire to become one of the best in the wine business really crystallized.

What was the reason for upgrading your wine selection?
Over time, I realized that the value of the wine that I was selling was not a market for the future.
Only the wine markets in Spain, Chile, and Italy were offering an upgraded selection of wines.
I therefore started to change my strategy in the years 85/90, to start orientating myself to the top of the range.
Today, we must not hide the fact that we are losing ground due to a new generation of wine connoisseurs from the Napa Valley, Spain, Italy, Chile and Argentina …

What are your criteria for choosing and buying a vineyard?
First of all, I only buy châteaux with names that have tradition and that have been classified. Very often, they also have to be restored as well.
As I don’t have any time to waste, I am always looking for top classified vintages, which have already received awards.
And finally, all of my wines are labelled.

You are working hand in hand with Michel Rolland, the famous oenologist. Are there any others?
As far as I am concerned, Michel Rolland is a genius, an ace in oenology.
I have been working with him since the 1990s.
Before that, I had another oenologist Ibereau Gayon, who is retired today.

Some of your detractors are saying that you are almost always making the same kind of wine, based on Michel Rolland’s advice. What do you have to say about that?
I will only make a very basic comment in that regard. The genius of wine is tied to the terroir, and each terroir is different, so how could the same kind of wine be produced?
We can only talk about similarity.

In your eyes, what are the essential qualities to succeed in the wine business?
Two rules are fundamental to succeed in making a high quality wine.
First of all, it is necessary to focus on quality, while chasing after competitions and to have some wines rated to qualify as excellent.
Secondly, marketing is vital and that is the weak point of the French.
What makes us stand out from the other wine merchants is we have our own marketing team.
Next, tasting is important and good relations with the press are essential.

What do you think of Robert Parker?
I can’t say anything, because we have been lucky for three years in a row with three 100s in 2005, 2006 and 2007.

How do you see the future of wine in the next ten years to come?
In my humble opinion, the only wines that will survive are the top of the range wines, but we have to realize that foreign wines dominate today.
To be ready to compete, it is important to focus on the culture of commercialization and marketing.
Today, there are five to six French great wines that are present on the market, especially the Château La Tour wine.

What are the essential criteria that go into making a wine, a top of the range wine?
There are several.
First of all, there is the myth of wine, its history and that’s a driving force.
In my case, I communicate a lot about the number of grape harvests.
Then innovation under labelling
Of course, the quality of terroir is essential.
And lastly, the winegrower and his wine production methods.

You own 35 vineyards, great châteaux, such as the Château La Tour, the great Saint Emilion Château Fombauge wine, the famous Chateau Pape Clément and yet still others. How far do you plan on going? Doesn’t this become a bit like a bulimic tendency at a certain stage?
No, I would like to be among the five leading wines of this country.
I am currently present in France; I have two vineyards in Spain, in Portugal, Morocco, Uruguay, Argentina, Chile, the Napa Valley and Japan.

Is your success, a revenge on life?
Definitely. My success is due to hard work. Because success is not hereditary, it is a road paved with hardships and ordeals. It is a constant battle. That is the price of success, but it is well worth it.

Janvier 2009
By Katya PELLEGRINO
www.pape-clement.com